Measuring/Marking Tools:Tape Measure, Pencil - duh
Mitering gauge - the red thing
Chalk line - the yellow tool
Bevel (Swivel) gauge - used for transferring angles from one pc of work to another.
Carpenter's level
Roofer's square/ speed square - a 45' triangle
(on R in 3rd photo, below)
Framing square or Trim square - L Shaped steel 16" on bottom, 24" tall, checks 90 corner joints combination square.
Saws:"Cross cut" cutting against grain
"Rip cut" goes w the grain
Less teeth means a smoother cut
Jack saw - angles down
Mitre saw - rectangular shaped blade
Hack saw (far L) various sizes, cuts metal small ones used more 4 carving
& Clamps to temp hold stuff together:
Grip clip or spring clip - used in tv film a lot
C clamps
Wood clamps/Yorgenson clamps
Hammers: Claw framing hammer - 16oz, or rip hammers (not shown, have the straight top)
Tack hammer
Rubber mallet - deliver force w out damage, shape thin metal
Ball peen hammer - used in metal work
Sledge hammer - not often used in theatre
Painting Tools:Ladders, scaffold (ha, not shown!)
Rollers + texture roller
sponges - hide flaws
Chip brushes - a nice disposable brushes
Paint tray or pan - "charging" the brush
use a W or x pattern when painting
5 in 1 one tool - scrapes rollers, open pant can,a staples out
Extensions - tools to screw onto rollers to give longer reach.
Planes - shown L in photo
Paint dryer - (not shown) looks like a hair dryer
Water based paints contain VOCs: volatile organic compounds. Meaning? They can rot.
Pliers & Wrenches (R-L):Wratchet or socket Open end wrench Box wrenches - really a circle, have the measurements on them
Pipe wrench - 4 used in hanging lighting (big with red handle)
Vice grip/locking pliers
Ice tong thing is really just "fancy plyers"
Dikes are the curved pliers Long-nose/Needle nose - Slip joint - popular, multifunction, the pliers with the red handle
Box/combo/open ended wrench, Crescent or C wrench -wow so many names!
Various:T50 hand stapler/staple gun - hangs curtains temp
Crimping cutting tools 4 metal
Wire strippers - (bottom L, black)
and a pencil (duh)
various chisels
What are the red and yellow handled tools at top of this photo?Pop rivet gun (black & red) - don't use much
Alan wrench/hex head screws (silver L's)
Black Crow bars & "wonderbar" (not shown)
scissors - duh
Blades:
"Exacto" or Matte knife - most common accident tool has a string cutter & place for extra blades. handy.
Stock flats:
2' 3' & 4' width stock flats are the often used flats you keep "in stock" to always have on hand.
"stock" also refers to the material you're working with
Power Tools:
Battery operated screw guns 'deWalts'
Dry wall Phillips screw
Battery chargers 9v to 18v
Keyless chuck to tighten chuck which holds the drill bits
Michitas are the older brand
Angle drill
Panel or circular saw - Battery op power, saw plywood Luan sheets, light duty cutting
Less teeth for rough cuts
can pivot to make beveled cuts
Worm drive saw - corded has more power
Sawsall or reciprocating saw -
Bosch saber saw (not jig or scroll saw) - can cut curves better than the michita brand, better for handling
Router - shaping tool flush cutter
Numatic staple and nail guns:
Portable compressor uses air pressure for...
finish nailers (the big one)
pin nailers doesn't hold as well as staples but use it for crown moulding or other items you'll want to pull off the stock sets later.
Sanders
Square ones , name?
Belt sander
grinder - will cut metal use composite blades Metal is bcoming more popular in theatre
Stationary Power Tools:
Band saw - blade is a band
Drill press -
radial arm saw makes many repetitive cuts, has a rip fence and you c clamp a 'stop block' as guide
**Table saw - unisaw, delta makes good table saws, generally used for rip cuts- along the grain of wood. Tracks are for holding rip fence always use blade guard.
Make sure to see that the bolt is locked down
Push stick don't get within 4-5" of the blade
Don't cross your body while running power saws
Chop saw or mitre saw, the yellow one Dewalt brand specialty cuts angled etc.
Disk sander
'doesn't make sense' notes on framing:
in lumber, a 1 x 3 is actually a 3/4 x2 1/2
use 1 or 1 3/8 staples for framing, change the staples for 'skinning' putting the luan on the front of the frame.
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